What’s New in Nantucket?

Not much, and that’s a very good thing.

By Catherine Censor

Shopping downtown
Courtesy of Nantucket Island Resorts

There seems to be an inverse proportion between a destination’s convenience and its allure. Nantucket is very alluring. This is why, at 3:30 on a Thursday morning, I got behind the wheel and drove nonstop for four hours to Hyannis. I wanted to be there in time to catch the first high-speed ferry of the morning (one hour instead of the usual two) so I could be in Nantucket in time for breakfast. Yes, I could have flown. In fact, Cape Air (800-352-0714) now has direct flights out of White Plains. But if you love Nantucket as much as I do, there’s something fitting about suffering just a little in order to reach its shore.

As you’ve probably already guessed, people don’t just “like” Nantucket—they’re gaga about it and they express their devotion in curious ways. Nantucket aficionados never say they’re “in Nantucket.” They’re “on island.” The men wear “ Nantucket reds”—pants in a distinctive reddish-orange color. The authentic ones come from Murray’s Toggery Shop ( 62 Main St., 508-228-0437). Women carry little lightship basket purses that can cost thousands of dollars if they were made by an “on island” artisan. Why does this destination, which gets enough fog and clouds to have earned the moniker “The Little Grey Lady of the Sea,” inspire such passion?

The Jared Coffin House
Courtesy of Nantucket Island Resorts

Nantucket’s splendid isolation (there’s no bridge to the mainland) is just one of its charms. The island is also a historian’s dream. Made wealthy by the lucrative whaling trade and socially enriched by the culture of Quakerism, Nantucket fell into decline by the middle of the 19th century. The Great Fire of 1846, which destroyed the business district, competition from a cheap new fuel called kerosene, a silted-up harbor, and most decisively, the Civil War, left it a well-preserved backwater and a treasure trove of antique architecture both grand and humble. The Whaling Museum, ( 11 Broad St., 508-228-1894), which underwent extensive renovation in 2005, chronicles the island’s history with magnificent exhibits on everything from whaling to the decorative arts that it financed.

Nantucket has conserved its land as well as its history. Nearly half the island, which is approximately the same size as Manhattan, is protected and can never be developed. That means that miles of beaches, biking and hiking trails, and open spaces rich in bird and plant life are all available to the public. Bringing a car here is wildly expensive and parking is next to impossible. Fortunately, you won’t need to drive. There’s a shuttle bus that loops around the island or you can rent a bike and burn off the lobster roll you’re going to eat for lunch.

A romantic room in The Wauwinet
Courtesy of Nantucket Island Resorts

If you’re not charmed by the thought of snacking on wild blueberries while pedaling down to the beach (and if you’re not, what’s wrong with you?), town (it’s just called “town”) offers boutique shopping and sophisticated dining spots along with a few more casual options. Just don’t look for chain stores or anything that the cast of “ Jersey Shore” might wear, buy, or eat. Here, “Starbuck” is the name of one Nantucket’s great whaling families, not the ubiquitous coffee house. And although you can certainly find souvenir t-shirts, Nantucket attracts well-heeled travelers who also buy antique scrimshaw, Italian bed linens, and Paraiba tourmaline necklaces. Speaking of heels, you’ll need wedges or flats to navigate the cobblestones so pack accordingly.

While town has a number of inns and B&B’s, my favorite in-town lodging option is the centrally located, historic, and (relatively) reasonably priced Jared Coffin House ( 29 Broad St., 508-228-2400). Make sure you ask for an air-conditioned room if you go during the height of summer. If you’re traveling with kids in tow, a cottage at The White Elephant ( 50 Easton St., 508-228-2500) is your upscale home-away-from home within walking distance of both town and beach. But if you’re really looking for a romantic, no-holds-barred, luxurious escape, you want to go to The Wauwinet ( Wauwinet Road, 508-228-0145). Located at the tip of Nantucket, this Relais & Chateau property is flanked on one side by the Atlantic Ocean and on the other by Nantucket Bay. Thanks to a no-kids-under-12 guest policy, the two private beaches are serene places for swimming and relaxing. Still not relaxed? Sink into one of the deeply cushioned wicker lounges on the lush lawn, sip a crisp rosé, and watch the waves. Truly recalcitrant stress cases need to stop by Wauwinet’s Spa by the Sea. I had one of the best massages of my life that included a decadent foot “facial” with exfoliating scrub, massage, and some kind of tingly spray that kept a spring in my step all day long.

A relaxing day at the spa at The Wauwinet
Courtesy of Nantucket Island Resorts

The rooms and cottages are posh (Pratesi linens!), spacious, and tastefully decorated. Some boast ocean or bay views. But the real draws here are the amenities, special touches, and intuitive service. Stay here and you’ll enjoy complimentary breakfast, afternoon sherry and cheese, sunset cruises, tennis courts, bicycles, hourly jitney service to and from town, and even rides in an antique “woodie” station wagon. Inn staff members know you by name and often, know what you want before you think to ask for it. After I returned from a long run, a lobby attendant met me at the door with a cold bottle of water. If you’re planning a day of shopping in town, you won’t have to lug your purchases around with you. The inn will give you “sherpa” tags that you attach to those bothersome shopping bags. They’ll be retrieved for you from the boutiques and delivered to your room.

To cap off a perfect Nantucket day, there are dining options aplenty in town but if you’re looking for something truly special or even proposal-worthy, you really can’t do better than Topper’s at The Wauwinet. Zagat Survey named it one of the “top 100 restaurants in the U.S.” and this place is a recipient of Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award” in recognition of its cellar that boasts more than 1,450 selections. Try the Baked Nantucket Lobster Tail with white cornbread stuffing, Cote d’Or truffle sauce, and spring pea shoots. Even if you’re not staying here, hop the complimentary water taxi that brings you to and from your dinner reservation. The captain provides flip-flops so you won’t get sea spray on your Louboutins.

The front view of The Wauwinet
Courtesy of Nantucket Island Resorts

For creative fare in a casual setting, check out Black-Eyed Susan’s ( 10 India St., 508-325-0308) where it’s BYOB and no credit cards are accepted. If you’re not a picky eater, make a beeline for quaint and foodie-friendly Company of the Cauldron ( 5 India St., 508-228-4016) where there’s a new menu each week. What the menu lacks in choice it more than makes up for in quality. There are typically two seatings a night and a harpist entertains three evenings a week. If it’s a lobster roll, fried clams, or scallops you crave, take a little walk or bike to Sayle’s Seafood ( 99 Washington St. Ext., 508-228-4599) and get your greasy goodies to go. There’s no atmosphere, very few plastic tables on the tiny deck, and there’s certainly no harpist, but if you love seafood, it’s heaven nonetheless.

As you pass Brant Point on the ferry ride home, toss a penny over the rail. Supposedly, this little ritual guarantees that you’ll return. If I thought it’d get me back there any faster, I’d throw a dime.